Though it took the four of us, three Indian grad students, two rickshaw drivers, and one Lonely Planet guide, we finally figured out the address of the place we wanted to go for dinner: Agashiye, which our guide described as "one of the best restaurants in Gujarat," and "an oasis above the crowds." Truly it is: it is on the rooftop of a gorgeous hotel, and involves two different sittings. Two options for the meal are provided -- standard or deluxe -- and the dinner comes in the form of many, many different small tastes.
The meal begins on the rooftop patio, sitting in park-like benches. Two appetizers are brought over -- samosas and lentil patties -- as well as some delicious watermelon juice. After a leisurely beginning, we were then moved to the main dining area, and as soon as we entered, fantastic aromas filled the air (rose? cardamom? I really have no idea. I don't even know what cardamom smells like, I just suggested it could be that to sound sophisticated).
At each place setting is a huge metal platter with four smaller silver dishes inside. The food is brought over in waves -- saucier items filling the metal dishes, with more solid curries, vegetables and breads being placed right on the platter. There seriously was so much food it's hard to remember what everything was -- that and the dim lighting which led us to just trust the chefs and go for it. Everything was interesting, and most was delicious; the one exception was a drink waiting for us as we arrived. We all had slightly different thoughts as to what it was, but some thoughts on what it tasted like included "milk with taco seasoning," "eggs and milk and salt," and my reflection: "this is gross, I'm not drinking this."
A family friend who knows Indian food well mentioned to me before leaving that Gujarati food is known for being very sweet. I absolutely found this to be the case -- nearly every item had a sweet taste to it. And, lest the ubiquitous sugar not be enough, at one point one item placed on our dish was, as my friend called it, "90 percent brown sugar...and maybe some oats."
Stuffed, we were about ready to call it a meal, when they brought the surprise third course -- rice and lentils. Despite a few of the dishes in the previous course being fairly spicy, these two were remarkably benign -- perhaps as a palate cleanser. The fourth course -- the desert course -- featured ice cream for all, as well as a platter with a mixture of dried fruits, strange tasting ginger, and chocolate.
In addition to outstanding food, the venue itself was a highlight. On a "balmy" Indian night -- about 90 degrees Fahrenheit -- it was perfect to sit outside and reap the rewards of surviving 105 degree daytime heat. It was tranquil, and allowed us to relax and savor the huge variety of different tastes offered. It was a great introduction to Gujarati food as it allowed us to taste a ton of different items, and the location up on the roof provided a nice respite from the craziness that has been India thus far.
Trying to figure out how to get there:
Course #1:
Course #2:
Rooftop patio #2:
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